Love at First Spike: Home – care Dermaroller

What is derma roller?

Derma roller is a device widely used for micro needling the skin in order to increase the level of collagen and elastin production. In skin needling, the needles puncture the skin in order to create a controlled skin injury. Each skin puncture creates a channel that triggers the body to produce more collagen and elastin as to fill these microscopic wounds. As a result of such procedure, you will be able to see a noticeable improvement in skin texture and firmness, as well as reduced appearance of scars, pores and stretch marks.

Dermarolling can be safely performed on all skin types and ethnicities.



Benefits Be aware
Help skin to produce natural collagen and elastin which will tighten and thicken the skin Please be sure to store and sanitize dermarollers properly in order to avoid any inflammations and damages to the skin
Enhance the effectiveness of your topical skincare product by boosting the absorption of active ingredients Please be sure to use high quality skincare product as it will be absorbed by the micro wounds in the skin
Help to reduce the appearance of rosacea, acne, hyperpigmentation, large pores


Consider following factors when shopping for dermaroller:


  1. Roller Wheel Structure
Overview Pros Cons
Integrated sealed wheel Individual needles are inserted manually into the roller body -Highest assembling technique and skill required i.e. high production cost

-Strong and integrated body protects needles from loosening and falling off

-Easy to sterilize and reuse

-Limited needle number: 200 needles max
Half – integrated roller wheel Dermaroller head consists of 24 exquisite blocks where each row has 8 pieces of manually inserted needles -Innovative and strong design preventing needles from falling off or loosening i.e. high production cost

-Very high hygiene standard preventing blood or drug leakage into the roller

-Easy to sterilize and re-use

-Limited needle number: 192 needles max
Half – integrated disk wheel Each disk has 25 openings which holds 25 actual needles -Exquisite disk design that prevents needles from loosening and falling off

-High hygiene standard preventing blood and drug leakage into the roller

-Easy to sterilize and re-use

-Limited number of needles: 200 needles max
Disintegrated disk wheel Each disk contains 60 flat needles manufactured by automatic machinery cutting -Number of needles can be up to 1200 due to low production cost

-Strong metal disk does not allow for needles to come loose and fall off

-Disk needles are “fake” needles which are less sharp compared to actual needles


As you can see from above, structure of the roller wheel reflects presence of real vs flat needles. I personally do not see how micro needling could be effectively done by flat needles which is why disintegrated disk wheel dermarollers will certainly not be my choice. Given that disintegrated disk wheel dermarollers have been selected out, I am left with options that offer a maxim of 200 needle roller heads.

When it comes to the needle count, there are people who believe that the more needles there are, the more effective the dermaroller is due to larger number of punctures in the skin. There are also people who say that dermarollers with dense needles simply slide on the skin i.e. they deliver less punctures due to pressure distribution.

Based on user feedback, I understand that dermarollers with actual needles and 192 – 200 needle count are most effective. That being said, needle length and quality need to be carefully considered as well when choosing the dermaroller.


  1. Needle length
Needle sizes: Face
Cosmetic Medical Surgical
0.1 – 0.3 mm 0.5 – 2.0 mm 2.5 – 3.0 mm
No bleeding since needles do not pass further than the epidermis

Enhance penetration of topically applied active ingredients
Does not cause collagen production

Needles reach dermis and some bleeding might be observed. Also, needle sizes will vary depending on the area (For example, needle size of no more than 0.5 mm will be used for sensitive areas such as neck)
Beneficial in case of skin rejuvenation, hair regrowth, lax skin, deep scarring, cellulite
Needles puncture epidermis and dermis thus reaching subcutaneous tissue. As such, heavy bleeding can be observed

Skin reconstruction work for severe cases of skin conditions


Dermarollers intended for the body and hair tend to have bigger size. For example, dermaroller with 0.5 – 1.5 mm needles are considered safe for personal use on the body areas; needles exceeding 1.5 mm are considered medical grade. Also, dermarollers with 0.5 – 1.0 mm needles are considered to be safe home treatment for the hair; needles exceeding 1.0 mm are intended for professional use.

With all that in mind, let’s return to dermarollers intended to be used on the face. Given my personal objectives, cosmetic dermarollers will work magic for me. That said, there are plenty of manufacturers who offer personal use dermorollers with needle sizes ranging from 0.2 mm to 2.0 mm. If you choose to venture beyond the safe grounds of cosmetic dermoroller, you should follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.


  1. Needle quality

Most dermaroller manufacturers use titanium or stainless steel to make needles.

Titanium Stainless steel
Material overview Strong, light and corrosion free Hygienic metal resistant to corrosion and rust.  It is a material of choice for tools that are intended to penetrate human skin (surgical tools, acupuncture needles, tattoo needles, etc)
Pros -Strong, robust and durable needles

-Needles maintain their sharpness overtime

-Needles do not bend in case the dermaroller falls

-Hygienic material

This is particularly important for large size needles since they penetrate deep into the skin

-Extremely sharp

Cons -It is difficult to sharpen titanium to maximum precision which means that titanium needs are not extremely sharp to start with. This lack of sharpness might cause micro tears on the skin as you move the dermaroller

-Titanium is less hygienic compared to stainless steel. Since titanium needles tend to pick up bacteria and other microorganisms from the skin surface during use, you have to put more effort in cleaning and sanitizing the roller head

-Stainless steel needles are intended for single use only. After the second use, the sharpness of needles tends to recede significantly

-If dermoroller with stainless steel needles falls, the needles will bend making the roller head unusable

Best for 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm needle sizes 1 mm needle size
Be aware You can purchase dermaroller with detachable head. This way you will need to replace only the roller head


  1. Protective cover

Protective cover is essential for protecting the integrity of the dermaroller as well as for hygienic purposes. That said, not all dermarollers come with protective cover.


  1. Additional functions
Galvanic function -Dissolve and export oil, dirt and impurities from the skin

-Facilitate transdermal movement of nutrients and active ingredients

Vibrations massage -Promote blood and lymphatic circulation

-Activate cell movement

Photon therapy -Resolve issues associated with skin ageing, dullness, dark spots, blemishes

Thanks for reading,

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